Thursday, November 15, 2012

Da Train, da Train

As we first drove up to the station in the predawn hours, I had no idea what to expect. Once the journey began, it was great.  I'd never been on a train before, had no idea what to expect and was pleasantly surprised by the experience.

A view of the double decker train
Accommodations - reserved coach or sleeping berth, I chose the coach. Seats were as wide as or wider than first/business class domestic airline seats, clean & comfortable with foot rests similar to a recliner so they went all the way up effectively turning your seat into a nice, comfortable easy chair. There are two seats on either side of the aisle in coach cars, both directions I sat without anyone next to me. Leaving plenty of room for "stuff." You can also choose to sit in the Lounge car. Seats there aren't as big and don't recline.

Levels - on most trains you have your choice of either the upper or lower level. Folks who can't climb the stairs are on the lower level.  I chose upper, as it has better views. One warning the stairs are steep and narrow, steps are shallow and going up or down while the train is moving is a challenge.  Also stowing carry-ons upstairs requires getting them up those stairs. Trains heading into the North East typically have one level only as the tunnels aren't high enough for the double deckers.

Cost - for a reserved coach, round trip from San Antonio to New Orleans was about half the price of flying. Like any other mode of travel, reserving early means a lower price. Cab fare from the station to the hotel in the French Quarter was $10. Shuttle from the airport to the hotel $20. However in many destinations the stations are closer to where you would want to be, so cab/shuttle cost isn't a factor. Time difference in arrivals was significant. So if you're in a hurry, then you might as well resign yourself to flying. Train time was 15 hours, flying time about 4 hours including any lay overs, driving time about 8-10 hours depending.  

A table in the dining car
One of my table mates lunch
Amenities - there was a dining car with good service, a bar in the lounge car and drinks available in the dining car also, restrooms, and pillows & blankets were also available. One thing I found especially good. You can take lots of luggage. You may check 2 bags and have 2 carry-on bags for free. Need more than that and you can add up to 2 additional checked bags for $20 each. Pillows are free. Blankets are FOR SALE. $15 cost. Dining/Snacks on the train are expensive. However, you may bring your own food. My lunch totaled $16 including tip, my dinner totaled $20 including tip. Both the dining car and the snack bar (located in the Lounge area) have limited hours of operation.

Another table mate's lunch

My lunch








Bench outside the Houston station





Ambiance - for those who travel by air, the difference by rail is like night and day.  The general atmosphere for airports: hurry up and get there. On the train it was completely different. First from here to NOLA the stations were small so no rushing. They were as clean as old places can be. Many however appeared run down, lacking maintenance and some were poorly lit also. But if you look beyond that and focus on the trains and the people you're traveling with, it's a whole different story. There is a general feeling of camaraderie on the train not found in airport travel.
This is also enhanced in the dining car which has limited seating. In order to accommodate everyone who wants to eat, they take reservations. Those with reservations are seated first and after if there is space available then others without reservations are seated. However, a table seats four and you might if you are traveling with less than 4 people actually be seated at a table with others also traveling whom you've never met.  That's what happened to me both times I ate. It can make for wonderful conversation, an opportunity to learn from your table mates and certainly intensifies the "chumminess" factor.

The Beaumont station
Boarding etc.  - Bags can be stowed on the upper level with you or in the bag storage down on the first level. Checked bags only take 15-30 minutes to get at your stop, and are picked up beside the train not in a separate baggage claim area. Boarding begins 30 minutes prior to departure, there is no security to go through, no metal detector and you don't have to take your shoes off. You print your own ticket, take it with you, it's scanned and your picture I.D. is checked. Then you proceed to the train. Seats can either be assigned or you can find where you'd like to sit. You may choose to stay in your seat or sit in the Lounge car. Lounge cars have very large windows so picture taking and scenic viewing from the upper level is easier, but bear in mind you are whizzing by. Lounge chairs aren't as wide as coach seats and do not recline.
Railroad luggage car
A policy I found unique, the trains have quiet time. After 10 p.m. no overhead announcements are made, lights are turned off, and all portable devices have to be either on silent or used with headphones.  Cell phone calls must be made/taken in the Lounge area. If you don't like quiet time you can always go to the Lounge area, where everything remains on and devices can be used as you wish.








The fog as I viewed it from the train leaving S.A.

After the fog cleared
Another pretty part of Bayou country as we draw close to LA

One of our views from the train
As we start to hit Bayou country
So much water in Bayou Country

More views from the train as we enter LA




Sunday, June 24, 2012

Hey Baby, Can we Have a Date Night?


He was just haning out waiting for some
intelligent conversation.

Any Baby Can had their annual fundraiser at the Dominion Country Club in May of this year and I was fortunate enough to be able to attend. I was one of a group of photographers who donated their time to take pictures to publicize this year's event, a Taste of San Antonio type of event.
One of the beautiful platters put
together by the Dominion chefs,
on the left side was my drink of
choice. Sangria. It was yummy.
I had a great time at the event. Took lots of pictures and once I put my camera down I was able to enjoy the myriad of food from 20 different restaurants in attendance. And I was even able to sample something of the libations that were everywhere as well.  

I have to be honest with you folks, most of the food was very good to excellent. The libations were delicious as well, the music playing in the background was great and everyone involved in the event from Dominion staff to Any Baby Can folks were on top of things which made the evening go very smoothly. It was originally scheduled to be held outside but due to the weather (pouring rain) it was moved inside and seemed to go off as well inside as out. 
As I moved through the rooms sampling and speaking with several of the folks from the various places, I got a feel for the different places that were represented. There were several that stood out in my mind and have since. Places where I thought I'd like to go on Date Night. I don't know about you, but we like to go some place really nice or really cool for Date Night. I'm not a run of the mill, chain restaurant, ho-hum, everyday kind of person. Spend a little extra money, put in a little extra time, go to a little extra effort to make the night memorable and wonderful. 
Now don't get me wrong, there were several chain restaurants and even H.E.B. there all giving out samples of their different options. But you can go to a chain place anytime, and generally anywhere you are. And the quality, taste and presentation will be the same no matter the location. I mean go to any McDonalds and the Big Mac will taste the same. Whether you're in London, Jerusalem, Buenos Aires, New York, San Antonio or Atlanta you will find that the fries are equally salty and tasteless. 
But what I was looking for were restaurants that were not chain places. They were unique, family owned, one of a kind places. I did not judge based on price, but on taste. Presentation was a part of things as well. As trust me, when I post a picture of my chef specials you eat with your eyes first. 
One that stood out, like if you or I was swimming against Michael Phelps out was Acadiana Cafe located at Loop 410 and Marbach Road. A bit far to go you're thinking, but well worth the drive for delicious Cajun and Creole food. The seafood gumbo was delicious, well prepared and served at the right temperature, even though it had been simmering all evening. Their crab cakes held up well through out the whole of the evening, were not over cooked, soggy or a mushy mess. They were tender and flaky, perfectly seasoned. So the next time you are in the mood for a little Louisiana cooking, take a trip way down the road and settle in at Acadiana Cafe. Relax and enjoy the Big Easy feeling and food.  
Acadiana folks and the guests taking
best on the crawfish races. This was
a blast to watch.
Another of the places that stood out for me was actually a chain restaurant. It was Brio Tuscan Grill. And it stood out because there were several Italian restaurants represented. But what made it outstanding was their choice of foods. They chose well, unlike other places that chose dishes that either over time became dried out and tasteless or mushy messes. I tasted their Sweet Potato & Chicken Risotto and it was followed by Ravioli Di Bello. Both had great flavor. The consistency was super as I did not get to taste till later in the evening and everything was cooked perfectly even though it had been kept warm since before I got there in the evening. The mixing of flavors was surprising and yet they complimented each other wonderfully.
A surprising place that won my heart was Little Gretel located in Boerne, just up the road from San Antonio. I'm not much for German food, but the owner/chef did a great job of explaining and teaching me about the food. So I sampled the Vienna Bratwurst and the Wurst Kiolbasa. Both were delicious, but very different in their subtle and overt flavors. I would recommend this place for the beginner German foodie or for the savvy expert. They also are accepting reservations now for the July 4th celebrations in Boerne. If you choose to sit out on the patio, you will have a wonderful view of the festivities.
The last place I would recommend is going to be your local H.E.B. Not your average Date Night place to be sure, but let's stop and think for a minute. Date Night does not have to mean go out. So stop by and pick up some of their specialty cheeses, sausages and maybe some sun dried tomatoes and fresh olives for appetizer with a nice glass of wine. Then some Yukon Gold potatoes and an all natural Angus steak for dinner with some organic baby greens salad and if you're up to it, another bottle of wine. Fresh fruit for dessert to round out your meal, and you will have a wonderful date night without the fuss and bother of going out. 
I hope I've given you some ideas for where to go and what to try for your next Date Night!


Joe's Crab Shack handing out food.


La Hacienda handing out food.

Z Tejas handing out food

Can I offer you a glass of wine?

One of the Dominion Chefs with their
selection of food.

A new Bakery, looking for business. Nothing Bundt
Cakes was the name of the business and they were
good!

An example of what they sell.
I'm not sure about prices, but my eyes
rolled back in my head when I tried
the Red Velvet cake.

Salud! Tequila shots between the girls!

Silent auction bidder. 

I just loved his beard. 

Scenic Loop Cafe and their customers.

Oh yea, I'll try that.

And they just talk among themselves
ignoring me. Geez!

Ambhar Tequila was a big hit with the crowd. 

La Paloma Blanca at their table of
food.

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Just the Facts, Ma'am. Just the facts.

Dan always used to tell me this when I started in on a long story. I think he said it was from Dragnet. But now that he's no longer working and I am (well when I'm not on vacation) I now tell him this. Just the facts.
So here are the simple unvarnished facts if you decide that you would like to visit Puerto Rico. I have learned this all firsthand as I was wandering, driving, being driven and finally falling my way through San Juan. This information is from personal experience, not research on the internet or any travel agency site such as Expedia or Cheap Hotels etc. I am not now nor have I ever been a travel agent. I'm simply someone who likes to travel. So I do. I hope this helps you if you plan a visit to this very beautiful Caribbean island.

Travel to and from the Island can be done either by air or cruise ship. I chose air, and we booked a flight on Air Tran. They are based out of Atlanta and fly to many destinations in the Caribbean such as Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands, Aruba, Jamaica and at least three destinations in Mexico among other places. The flights are not too expensive in the overall scheme of airfare. They are currently owned by Southwest Airlines so I was also able to use my ticket purchase for my frequent flyer club membership miles. Upping my miles toward free flights. Unlike Southwest they do offer Business class which is an upgrade and they charge for luggage. $20 for the first bag.
Hotel Verdanza is where we stayed as I've stated before. It has plenty of amenities to make almost everyone happy and my overall impression was satisfactory. Because of the snafu with the WiFi I won't say very satisfactory. But I will say that the Hotel staff was very attentive, polite and helpful throughout our stay, the amenities were plentiful and the restaurants were very good. During our stay we heard live music playing on weekends during the day at the pool area. It was very soft and light background music, not intrusive but pleasant and relaxing. There is also live music in the lobby during the weekends. Other amenities include laundry facilities, a gym, an eighth floor terrace, several restaurants, handicap accessible rooms, rental car desk in the lobby, tour agent in the lobby, room service, party facilities, sports bar, pool, jacuzzi, water park for the kids, gazebo in the pool area, party facilities the hotel is located about a 3 minute walk from the beach.
Hotel Verdanza is well situated in area commonly known as Isla Verde for the beach here but technically it is a suburb called Carolina. It is a major tourist destination due to the number of hotels, casinos and vacation condo rentals. There are several major upscale hotel chains, most major restaurant chains are also located within easy walking distance and I counted more than a handful of casinos as well. It is in close proximity to the air port also. 
While you are visiting you will need to consider ground transportation or getting around. Especially since most of the areas where tourists stay are a distance from the tourist sites. You will have a choice of private car service, taxis, rental car or public transportation. All of those choices have pros and cons. Here are the particulars for you. There are two different classes of taxis, those for locals and those for tourists. Tourist taxis range in price from $15 to $40 or more, depending on where you are going. And that is one way, not round trip. So from our hotel to Old San Juan we payed $20 one way. Taxis are easily available, plentiful and most drivers speak English & are very helpful in giving you advice, walking directions, and tips on things to see. 
Private car services are available but pricey. You could pay several hundred dollars a day for one depending on the time that you contract to have them. The upside is that it is the ultimate in convenience. They are at your beck and call. Employees speak English, are helpful, polite and very accommodating. 
Most major hotel chains have a rental car desk in their lobby. Our hotel had Dollar for their car rental agency. Cost of a car for us was $41 per day, economy size with military discount. We had unlimited mileage but were offered an option of purchasing any gas we used or purchasing their gas. Gas in Puerto Rico is dispensed by liter not gallon. So after the conversion gas costs around $4 per gallon. Downsides for driving yourself around are parking is scarce and costly. We paid just under $6 for 1 1/2 hours of parking. All the traffic signs are in Spanish and the vocabulary is different from what I am used to, making me really have to think. Local drivers are not the most polite either. They honk a lot, especially at tourists. Another thing that is kind of unnerving is that they ride your bumper, swerve in and out of lanes indiscriminately, drive fast, stop for anything and everything and back up without warning in the middle of a lane. Last of the downsides is that some roads are not marked at all, others are not clearly marked and some even turn from tow way traffic to one way with no notice. 
Finally public transportation in San Juan is officially known as MetroBus but is commonly known as Guagua. Buses run fairly close to schedule, are clean, air conditioned, and have plenty of seats. Cost is 75 cents per rider per trip (exact change only pease) and there are plentiful Paradas or bus stops. The downsides are that most operators do not speak English, and are not necessarily helpful. Stops are not generally called out in advance either so you must know when and where you need to exit. From our hotel we could take either the #5 or the #53 to Old San Juan. Termination of the route is at the station just a block or so from the Plaza de Colon, the piers & casinos, the beginning of Old San Juan and about 4 blocks downhill from El Morro. If you are bilingual, then getting on the MetroBus website would be a cinch, but otherwise ask for information from your hotel staff for using the bus system.
The bottom line on transportation is choose your poison, budget accordingly and don't be afraid to change up.
Food costs in San Juan are generally reasonable. You can get a full meal at a nice chain restaurant for a comparable price or less depending on where you live in the U.S. There are also some very nice, delicious local only places that I would recommend you try. While in Viejo San Juan street vendors are a good and inexpensive choice, but there are also lots of Puerto Rican only places to sit & eat. I would also encourage you to be adventurous and try some Puerto Rican dishes like Mofongo. Also if you are a seafood lover, then you'll be in heaven here as there are lots of seafood choices. Like shrimp enchiladas. No tortillas involved in this dish however. Try some Puerto Rican rice and beans too while you're out on that experimental limb. It's was great! Most of our meals without alcoholic drinks cost on average between $25 and $40 for the two of us. 
Now for the part most of the ladies want to know about. Shopping. First there are three large malls. The largest and most up to date is Mall of the Americas. Almost every chain store you can imagine is in one or more of the malls, prices are comparable and in some cases lower than mainland prices and certainly lower than the other Caribbean islands. Of course you will also find a variety of Puerto Rican only stores also in the Malls. As well as theaters, bowling and food courts.
There were several specialty and outlet stores in Old San Juan also. Especially on Calle del Christo, Calle San Francisco and streets close to the Piers. Some of the stores in that area were Polo Ralph Lauren, Dooney & Bourke, Crocs and Coach. But these are just a sampling. The list of shops is extensive. It is also one place that authentic handcrafted items from local artisans is available. Numerous art galleries with work in various media are located as well in Viejo San Juan and for the gentleman in your life, cigar shops are plentiful. Honestly there's a little something for everyone. Even if your budget only allows for the "cheap made in china junky souvenirs" that typically come home from vacations. Want a t-shirt that says you visited Puerto Rico or San Juan, you can get 4 for $10 in Old San Juan. Enough to outfit the entire family. 
Safety concerns are an issue on everyone's minds. Here's my take. In all my wanderings many of them alone because of Dan's mobility issues I never once felt ill at ease, uncomfortable or unsafe. Most sites are in and around old San Juan which dates from 1493, sits on a bluff with streets that are narrow, steep and paved with ancient cobblestones. The sidewalks are covered in tiles many of which are broken, missing pieces or are no longer there at all. As you know from reading my blog that is why I had my unfortunate accident. You also know that there is a heavy and attentive police presence in the area. Tourism is a part of the economy and safety for tourists is taken seriously. Many locals speak English and are helpful, especially if you fall down. Couple that with my rudimentary Spanish and I was perfectly fine perusing the sights on my own. In the area where our Hotel is, it is the same. We saw lots of police, many were driving with their lights flashing. Making it obvious they were in the area. 
One warning that I would give is the one I received from a couple of very nice locals who spent hours showing me around. If you decide you want to go to Old San Juan in the evening, then try not to look too touristy. Most locals wear shorts or jeans, some capris pants and a lightweight shirt or top. Not too much showy jewelry and certainly leave your camera back at the hotel. Take some money or a credit card and your ID in your pocket and forego the big bag. Or better yet, give your significant other what you need in terms of that and let him carry them in his wallet. It's also best if you're out and about at night to use a taxi. Bus schedules slow in the late night hours and sitting at a stop would make you vulnerable. So plan ahead and take that taxi back to your hotel.
Mind your own business and you'll be fine. Muggings happen, they are a fact of life. But they can happen to you in your own home town also. Relax and enjoy your vacation. How often will you get to go to a Caribbean island like this one in your life? Make the best of the time you have and have fun. 


An homage to Christopher Columbus.

This reminds me of New Orleans, the street names are all
placed on the corners of buildings and done in mosaic
tiles.

The entrance to the bomb shelter, which
was built during WWII.

It says bomb shelter #1. It is in the old San Juan area.

Coat of arms on a building in Viejo
San Juan.

A view of the Paseos and what you see when you stroll
along them. Both Paseos are just above the water.

I loved the look of this door in old
San Juan. It shows its age so wonderfully.

This islet can be seen from the edges of Viejo San Juan.
It is now a very expensive, upscale tourist area where
many ex-pats live. It used to be a designated leper colony
and if you visit this part of Puerto Rico the ruins of the
colony are still there. Also if you look closely you will
see a small fort, which sits across from El Morro. It is part of
the National Historic site like San Cristobal and El Morro.

A view down the coastline. In the background of the photo
you can see the new parts of San Juan. All modern and
high rise.

A view of the capital building in the foreground and high
rises in the background.

This is Pier #2 on the right. You can take the ferry from
here to the Bacardi Distillery for 50 cents. On the left is
one of the Casinos of San Juan.

A view of the city.

One of the many plazas. Only this one had a traditional
style fountain, so the kids couldn't play in it.

In the background you can see the mountains of Puerto Rico.
I would suggest you get out of the city and see the
Rainforest, but do not stay in it after about 5 p.m. as it gets
dark in the forest very quickly. Also the national forest
is in those mountains.

Isla Verde Beach. About 2 blocks
from our hotel.

This was on Father's Day. A holiday in Puerto Rico. The
beach was packed that day.

You can see some of the high rise hotels that are situated
right on Isla Verde.


Night view of the city.



Night view of the suburb of Carolina and Isla Verde. A
popular tourist area.

The high rise hotels of Isla Verde at night.

I just happened to snap this picture of the courtyard and pool
area of our hotel. I thought it made a great picture.