Viejo San Juan

I can imagine the thoughts that ran through the minds of those who saw Puerto Rico and the San Juan Bay for the first time.  Verdant, a perfect natural harbor with high bluffs on one side, and close to abundant fresh water sources what more could a man in 1493 want. In less than 20 years there was a growing population in an established settlement high on those same bluffs.

Fast forward to today and when driving around the road signs direct you to old San Juan as Viejo San Juan. When you ask directions, or help that is how it is referred to. The second oldest settlement in the new world, it must have at the beginning looked very much like the homes left behind so far away across the Atlantic.

The homes of San Juan.

Homes in old San Juan are multi-colored and multi-level. All washed in the soft pastel shades of blue, green, yellow, peach, salmon, lavender and over all of everything else is white with black wrought iron, done simply with very little scroll work, very little flourishes. Most of the homes and businesses have the series double doors that are common to other settlements founded by the Spaniards. Balconies are Juliet style with very little room except to stand on them. Windows are large, covered in the jalousies that are common all over the Caribbean. A unique and simple system that allows light and air to flow in but keeps the hot sun and rain out. Most of the large homes are now either museums or have been split up into multiple residences many with businesses on the main floor.

Viejo San Juan is a walled city, most if its walls surviving the passage of time, the vacancies of the weather and the neglect of man. It is a city filled with plazas (squares), parques (parks), historia (history), Catedrals (cathedrals) and Capillas (chapels). Its street are paved with cobblestones, its sidewalks are now covered in tile, and its people are open, helpful and kind. I have had the pleasure of meeting several while here who spent their time and gave of their knowledge so that I could understand better and appreciate their city more.   

The walls surrounding Viejo San Juan and behind the wall
you can see the multi-colored buildings. 

Since San Juan was founded on the bay, its also one of the busiest ports in the Caribbean. Not just for cruise ships but for container ships, oil barges and many other kinds of shipping. As we drove through

 town we saw the marina filled with beautiful sailboats, large yachts, schooners, and smaller vessels. The day I took my walk down La Paseo De la Princessa there were fishermen in their boat out on the water bringing in their catch. A huge net filled with fresh fish, multicolored like the rainbow. I'm not sure what those fish were, but they were beautiful none the less.

The modern world has come to Viejo San Juan with a Starbucks, numerous shops, a CVS Pharmacy, souvenir shops, cigar sellers and street vendors galore. So in addition to seeing the historic places you can also eat a fine meal, shop till your credit cards are maxed out and then afterwards go to a cigar room choose your preference and smoke. The nightlife in San Juan and in old San Juan is alive and as the signs everywhere here point out, San Juan does it better. We saw numerous clubs, discos, bars and tapas restaurants. Bacardi is king here and so is the Mojito. There are numerous taxi stands located in strategic places in the walled city ready to whisk you back to your hotel. The piers are close by so you can ride the ferry across the bay to other hotels and condos to sleep off the effects of your night of partying and drinking Mojitos.

My new acquaintances told me of the local "moonshine" that is available. One has such a high alcohol content that it is illegal to be sold and I was warned not to try it as it can, if not made correctly be lethal. Another I was told tasted like fruit punch because it has a fruit base. It's sweet when you drink it cold but, you also don't feel its effects. Until you stand that is. Then you just simply fall face forward drunk as a skunk. I think I'll skip both thank you.

There are also casinos where you can while away your time. One is located in Viejo San Juan directly in front of Pier 2. It is a large building standing several stories high with every sort of gambling distraction that Vegas or Atlantic City has. So after eating, drinking, shopping, and smoking if you have any money left and want to try your luck at winning enough for a free vacation go on in and see if lady luck is on your side. Then again if you'd rather start at the casinos so you can win additional money for spending later, be their guest. They are open year round, holidays do not affect them.

A business on the ground floor and a
residence up above.

Multi-level home in old San Juan.

Such a dramatic entry for a home.

St. Anthony if I remember my catholic stuff right. This tile
mural was on the corner of a building in Viejo San Juan.

A view of the steep streets and the
cobblestones.

Moorish influences in old San Juan.
This door literally glowed, it had been
waxed and cared for so much.

I loved the pediment door frames on these doors.

One of the large mansions that has since been converted to
a government building. This is tourist center.

Another of the large mansions that has been converted. This
time into a school. I loved cutout in the facade of the building.

Another view of the wall. Most of the wall is still in place.

Another special school for students in San Juan. There are
ballet, art, and science schools that I saw in these
beautiful old mansions. 

A Plaza just for the tourists on the edge of old San Juan.

Believe it or not, the only time the chapels and churches
were open to was on Sunday. All the other days they were
chained and locked. I went by this chapel on Friday.
So no other picture but this one. 

Can you imagine living in this place.
With these wide steps starting at
your front. Beautiful.

The little house on the water's edge of old San Juan,
now part of a park or plaza.

The foundations of this structure are
actually built into the wall that
surrounds Viejo San Juan.

The only remaining gate for the city,
this was the gate that high officials,
members of nobility and high ranking
military officers would have used. 

This is the inside of the San Juan Gate. The picture shows
barrel vault of the passthrough and also shows the thickness
of the wall itself. Dan estimated the thickness to be about
10 feet.

A constant battle. The vegetation will take any foothold
it can get in the wall and that makes the wall crumble
that much quicker.

Some of the vegetation that grows on or near the wall, its
roots breaking down the walls slowly but surely. I'm
not sure what the little white things are on this plant.

Some kind of native fruit. Is it edible? I'm not sure.

This one was for me. I've always wanted to get a picture of
a spider web in the sun. Now I have, in Puerto Rico.

You can clearly see the wall's height in this shot. I was in awe
of something that was at least two stories high and 10 feet
thick that had been around for a few hundred years.

The original gate door for the San Juan gate was replaced
with this one and the date inscribed on it. 1749.

Looking down from the inside of the
city's walls.

I just had to get pictures of all these kids. They were playing
in the plaza fountain which is set up to shoot water on a
timer in alternating patterns. They would all disappear when the
water was not flowing but as soon as the water started up
they would run from all directions to play, laugh, scream
and jump while the water shot streams up in the air.

A sentry box in the walls of San Juan.

The old city is clean, has no unpleasant street odors, is free from beggars, small in size and for the most part has mostly pedestrian in traffic. Parking is available on the edges of old San Juan, but it is expensive. The trolleys run during the day and will take you to or close to shopping, restaurants, bars, and casinos. I only saw one hotel during our times in El Viejo San Juan, unlike other old cities we have visited like New Orleans. But the similarity between the two old cities can not be missed. They bear a striking resemblance to each other in many ways. One of the biggest differences is the lack of mosquitos here as opposed to New Orleans. The heat and humidity are similar, but the cool ocean breezes help to alleviate many a cranky tourists hotness.